in the navy: vogue 9197

It’s hard to name a favorite color. I love them all equally.

Just kidding, I can’t get away with that. Navy blue does it for me. It’s a classic color that is universally flattering, and it looks and feels much less severe and harsh than black. I actually don’t like wearing black at all. I feel sad in black, and I don’t want to spend my time in anything that makes me feel sad. I don’t even own that many pieces in black, just a basic pencil skirt and a blazer. No other dresses or skirts. Now, just because I love navy doesn’t mean I don’t like other colors. Quite the contrary, I love all the colors. I go through phases where I lean towards certain colors (red has my attention at the moment), but my one true love is navy. Oddly enough, though, I don’t make as many things in navy as I’d like. It’s hard to find the right navy, and it took me years to find the navy floral eyelet in this post.

Even when I don’t have a “need” for fabrics, I’m always on the lookout for must have fabrics. (Aren’t we all?!) Prints, lace, wool, linen, sateen, you name it. On my wishlist for years was the perfect navy eyelet or lace. I looked everywhere. I found a couple things I liked, but they were always lacking in one way or another. Too washed out, too thin, too much polyester, too much not good enough. I visited my family in Nashville last May, and my mom and I went to a fabric store called Textile Fabrics, just a few blocks from downtown Nashville. Side note: we’d just had brunch at a place called Biscuit Love (you must go there, it is so delicious you’ll want to cry tears of joy), and then we’d walked a block to the Lucchese store, only one of the most fun places if you’re a cowboy boot lover like I am. Anyway, back to the fabric store. My mom and I probably spent close to two hours in there, slowly making our way around the racks of fabric. There were buttons and ribbons and notions, and it was fantastic.

Then I found this navy floral eyelet and got really, really happy. It’s everything I’ve ever wanted in a navy floral eyelet: it’s a true, deep navy; 100% cotton; and the floral design is delicate and beautiful. I kept this fabric in my stash for months, knowing I wanted to make something truly special with it. I thought about a shirtdress or separates but I landed on Vogue 9197, because it’s truly the ultimate dress. A nicely fitted bodice with a jewel neckline, sleeves, and a full skirt. Because the bodice is so classic and it hits at the natural waist, I knew I would get a lot of miles out of the pattern because I could draft any number of skirts onto the bodice, making for endless options. Also, the bodice has a French dart, which is perfect for lace or eyelet because it hides that element the best.

So, here’s what I did to this pattern:

#1. I added a little more fullness to the skirt. This meant I had to cut it on the cross grain, so I also cut the bodice and sleeves on the cross grain so that the pattern would match. My fabric is 100% cotton so I didn’t lose any stretch cutting it like this because there wasn’t any to begin with, but if you’re using a fabric with some stretch in it (like a poplin or sateen), be mindful that there’s little to no stretch when you cut on the crossgrain. So make sure you’re cutting the right size so that you’ve got enough ease.

That’s it. I got really lucky this time in that I didn’t make any fitting adjustments either. I cut a size 16 without doing a thing to the pattern pieces. I didn’t even adjust the length of the sleeve. I liked it just as it is.

I used an underlining in this dress because I wanted continuity and clean lines in the dress. I also wanted the fabric to pop, and putting a nude/gold lining underneath it achieved that. So, after I cut out the navy, I cut out the nude lining, and then I cut the actual lining. I put the navy on top of the gold and sewed them as one, together. So, for each piece I placed the navy eyelet on top of the nude underlining and then treated it like a single layer. I serged the side seams and center back seams of my skirt, and then attached the pockets as I usually would.

My original intention was to put an invisible zipper in this dress. Again, keep things as clean as possible. The night before my last opportunity to photograph this dress before my family came to visit us for Christmas, I tried on this dress and the zipper broke. I’m telling you, I have never met an invisible zipper I liked or that liked me back. So I went from having a little hand sewing to do to ripping out a broken zipper, reinstalling a new one, and then finally getting to my hand sewing–all in one night. I went with a regular zipper in a centered application, which is not ideal but it’s what works, literally.

The zipper:

The French dart, and skirt gathered into the waistline:


The construction of this dress is straightforward and uncomplicated. I think gathering is a bit of a pain, but this was easy and I even added about 6″ of flare to the skirt. I went with a hem facing, and I let the dress rest on the dress form overnight to let the bias fall. I knew it would only fall a small amount, but with the underlining and hem facing happening, I didn’t want any ugly pulling or puckering anywhere. I cut off about 1/4″ in some places when I leveled the hem. Not a lot, but enough to make a difference.

Read about leveling a hem here, and read about hem facings here.

I cut the hem facing in navy sateen, and I used the blind hem stitch on my machine to attach it to the underlining:

This dress is fully lined, and I couldn’t be happier with it. The extra effort and time invested in a piece like this is always worth it. I know I’ll get tons of wear out of this one.


I’m excitedly figuring out my projects for January which definitely include a couple of outerwear pieces in addition to the usual lineup of dresses and a few separates. I’m in the mood to add a few fabrics to my stash, but I’m not finding too much that inspires me. If you know of a great supplier, let me know!

Happy Sewing!

the holiday collection

Hello, and Happy (almost) New Year! Who else can’t believe December is nearly over?! I feel like Thanksgiving was just yesterday, and I’m definitely not ready to pack up the Christmas decorations yet. Going the past five days without so much as being in the same room as my sewing machine for ten minutes was a nice break, but I’m beside myself to get in there and get back to work. I’m already getting excited thinking about the projects I can’t wait to tackle in 2017. But more on that later.

It’s not always possible to work on more than one project at a time, but when I can I like to work on groups of garments, a little collection if you will. I especially like to do this ahead of a new season or time of year when I know I’ll need a group of things to wear for certain events. Developing a color story and picking fabrics and finalizing the individual components is a big part of the fun for me. A huge part, in fact. For this holiday season, I decided on a handful of separates and dresses, a few of which I finished in November. See Vogue 8825 in navy and gold, for example.

I will dedicate a post to each of these items later this week, but let’s start with the overview. This is Vogue 9197 in a navy floral eyelet from Textile Fabrics in Nashville, Vogue 8772 in red plaid linen from a little shop in London with a tulle skirt (my own design), and Butterick 5030 in a red stretch twill from Fashion Fabrics Club that I’ve had for well over a year. 

I love V8772 for the options and the truly magnificent fit. V9197 is a great basic pattern with a well fitting sleeve in a flattering length, and the French dart means it’s a great pattern for lace or eyelet fabrics, like I’ve done with the navy dress. I’ve made this pattern once before already, but I drafted a full skirt for it. I’m working on a third in this pattern and when it’s finished, I’ll show you the group of three. Another pattern I’ve done in triplicate is Butterick 5030, and I’m just as pleased with the red version as I was with the blue ones. I’m debating doing this pattern one more time in a linen print I’ve had for ages, but I may also pack it away in favor of another wrap dress pattern. We’ll see.

I had a couple fabrics with a lovely Christmas-y green in them that I considered including in the collection, but they clashed with the plaid linen which was my favorite of the prints so I’m saving the greens for my next group of projects. I really like the mix of textures in this group: the twill, the linen, the eyelet, the tulle. Makes me happy.

This was also the first time I got to use my new McCall’s labels, which I love. I ordered a handful of each design a couple weeks ago, and I’m so pleased with the quality and looks of them. Labels add polish to garments, and they are a must have for me. Every time I post a close up photo where the label is visible I get lots of questions about it. If you’re here for the first time or you haven’t seen my post about labels, go here.

I’ll be finishing my New Year’s Eve outfit this week, and I can’t wait to see my sequin skirt when it’s finished. I wanted to have it done in time for Christmas, but it’s one of those things you can’t rush. I think it will be worth it. I can’t think of a time it wasn’t worth it.

Happy Sewing, and see y’all later this week!

how to: hem facings

I designed a skirt a few years ago, a skirt some of you may remember. It was long and sequined and ladylike and magnificent. I always sold the samples in a big sample sale, but I’ve always wanted one. Last month, I decided that with two tulle skirts in my closet and plenty of new dresses finished and ready to wear it was time to make this skirt for myself. I can’t wait to show you the finished product soon, but what connects my new sparkly skirt and this post is the fact that I put a hem facing in it. Hem facings are one of my favorite things, and I realized that I do them quite frequently, and for various reasons.

Hem facings are just another way to finish a hem. They are simple and easy to do, and they give the garment a very professional and clean finish. Think of hem facings just like you would any other facing–it’s simply a copy of the hem in a width of your choosing. Let’s go through some examples, starting with a garment with a shaped hem. You can sew a narrow hem on a shaped hem, but depending on your fabric they can roll or stretch and look a little blah. For a shaped hem like this, a hem facing is a nice detail that looks neat, and it’s also easier to sew.

This is a dress I made over the summer, and the fabric is a washed linen I got in Amsterdam last March. Linen makes a wonderful hem facing because it’s so easy to work with and because it presses so well. This hem facing is about 3″ wide, and I included 1/4″ to turn under and stitch in place. If you look closely you can see the row of stitching on the right side of the garment.

This is what my pattern pieces looked like. All I did was trace the bottom of the hem about 3″.